You are on site and have installed an overhead door closer, but something isn't quite right. Below we explain the solutions to the most commonly occurring door closer problems both with overhead mechanical and electromagnetic door closers.
Issue 1: The door doesn’t close properly
Solution: Check that the door, frame, pivots, and other ironmongery such as seals have been fitted correctly. A simple test you can do to check this is to disconnect the arm of the door closer and see if the door can be easily pushed closed with one finger. If you can do this, then the problem may be that the closer isn’t suitable for the door.
Always choose a door closer with a power size suitable for the maximum width and weight of the door. Many closers have variable power sizes so they can be adjusted to suit the door, but Fire Doors should be set at no less than EN3 to meet building regulations (BS EN 1154).
Issue 2: The door is slamming
Solution: Air pressure can be a big factor when it comes to slamming doors. Trapped air between internal and external doors or small spaces can contribute to doors slamming. Most closers have an adjustable latching action valve, adjust this so that the door closes slower in the last 10-15 degrees of the closing cycle to try to counteract this.
You may also need to make an adjustment to the overall closing speed so that it is quicker. If after making adjustments, the issue still persists, you may require a new closer entirely.
You can also watch our YouTube video on how to stop fire door closers from slamming.
Issue 3: The door is creeping closed or not holding open
Solution: This issue is occasionally found with electromagnetic door closers. Ensure that you have fitted the closer to template. Just because there was an existing door closer before you installed this one, does not mean that it was fitted correctly. If your closer was supplied with two cams (hold open or swing free functionality), make sure you are using the correct one. If you see any sign of oil (see issue 6 for more info), it is likely that the closer has lost pressure and is unable to perform as it should.
Always check the voltage going to the unit, most electromagnetic door closing devices run off 24V DC regulated power suppliers or transformer rectifiers. If you are not using one of these supplies, voltage spikes could affect the overall performance of the product and they can also fry the solenoid – you’ll most likely notice the smell if this is the case.
Most electromagnetic door closers have between 10 and 15% tolerances so around 20.4V DC – 27.6V DC would be ok. This depends on the unit so be sure to check. If the voltage going to the closer is too low it will not be enough to allow it to function correctly. If the voltage is too high, it can burn out the solenoid. You will find that the closer might lose its hold open functionality and the door will creep closed.
Another tip is to check the current draw for the unit. It is recommended that you derate the power supply by 25% to ensure that it is not maxed out. You should also check the voltage on the last unit in the circuit to ensure that it is still within the tolerance limits, as current drops over distance. Also, if you’re having hold open issues, is your electromagnetic door holder not working, rather than it being a door closer issue?
Issue 4: The door is closing too fast or too slowly
Solution: A lot of door closers have adjustable valves, power sizes should be determined by the door width and weight and variable door closers are handy in case your door is on the cusp of one of the sizes. If the door is closing too quickly or too slowly try to adjust the closing speed slightly to see if it makes a difference. Some door closers such as the Arrone AR6509B, have delayed action valves; this slows the closing cycle so that vulnerable people have time to pass through the door safely.
Most electromagnetic door closers work by stopping the flow of hydraulic oil from passing through a vein controlled by a solenoid, which cuts the vein off. The closing speed could be set too fast, so the solenoid does not have enough time to build up pressure to prevent the hydraulic fluid from passing through the vein. Ideally, the minimum closing speed should be at least 10 seconds to overcome this.
Watch our Tool Box Talks video on how to adjust the closing speed of the dormakaba TS73EMF overhead door closer.
Issue 5: The door is too heavy or too light when opening
Solution: Check the power size of the closer against the door width and weight. A handy guide can be found below. Also, check your adjustment valves (see issue 4 above).
Many electromagnetic door closers have adjustable power sizes so you can adjust them to suit your door, but some are fixed and only suitable for doors up to certain specified widths. Power size can also be affected by the fitting configuration of the closer.
Door Closer EN Power Size Chart:
Door closing needs to be assured with each use to ensure effective fire compartmentation, and control access but door opening needs to be smooth and easy for users. So, replace the door closer if it cannot be adjusted as required, and install a door closer with an adjustable power size, or a fixed power size to suit the door width, weight, and location.
Issue 6: The door closer is showing visible signs of oil.
Solution: A new door closer is required. Oil leaks are caused by a broken or worn seal within the closer mechanism. This may have been a manufacturing fault or caused through over adjustment of the different valves. If adjustments are required to suit the door, then these only need to be small, careful incremental turns. Never ever use a power drill to make adjustments to a door closer as this increases the risk of breaking a seal. Seals will eventually start to fail over time, so if it’s an old closer that’s leaking, it’s time to replace it.
Issue 7: The door keeps hitting the wall when it’s opened
Solution: Some door closers, like the Arrow 325VP, offer backcheck functionality. Backcheck can be adjusted where the door is being thrown open. This helps to prevent damage to the door and frame by providing a cushioning effect.
Let us show you how to adjust the thinking backcheck on an overhead scissor door closer, this video is the dormakaba TS72 VBC.
Issue 8: The door is not closing into the frame
Solution: First check that the power size matches the width and weight of the door. If the closer is wound down to a power size EN1 or EN2, it may not be enough to be able to close the door. Power size is also known as spring size, the tighter the spring is wound up, the higher the power size and the stronger the force to close the door.
The final 10-15 degrees can also be affected by adjusting the latching action valve. This is particularly useful in helping the door overcome seals and the latch. Having a regular door closer maintenance plan in place for your facility is essential, not only to maximise the life of the closer but to ensure the safety of all door users. Maintaining security and fire door integrity is of the utmost importance.
Consider External Factors
Take a look at the door that the closer is being installed on and the area that the door is in. Door closer issues whether in the opening or closing cycles could be external. For example, are there any seals to overcome? Is it contending with any air pockets? The best way to check some of these issues is to see if the door can close without a door closer on the door at all.
In the first instance, it is best to install the right closer for the right application. This would minimise the likelihood of any issues. Head over to our blog A Complete Guide to Selecting the Right Door Closer, for more information.
If adjustments to the closer arm, body, or fitting position, it could be time to install a new unit, whether surface mounted, concealed, or a floor mounted unit. You can contact our technical customer services team for help with any door hardware issues, so get in touch today.
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