My Electromagnetic Door Closer Is Not Working – What Can I Do?

Posted on: 14.06.2021 Posted by: Door Controls Direct

Whether your electromagnetic door closer has been working for a while or if you have just installed it, it can be frustrating when it is not working as it should be. In this blog, we list things to check to get you back on track.

1: Closing Speed

Most electromagnetic door closers work by stopping the flow of hydraulic oil from passing through a vein which is controlled through a solenoid, which cuts the vein off. It might be that the closing speed is set too fast, so the solenoid does not have enough time to build up pressure to prevent the hydraulic fluid from passing through the vein. Ideally, the minimum closing speed should be at least 10 seconds to overcome this. 

Take care when adjusting your closer as most of them only require slight incremental adjustments to achieve the desired effect. 

2: Power Size

Is your door closer up to the task? Required EN Power Sizes are dictated by the width of your door. A lot of electromagnetic door closers have adjustable power sizes so you can adjust them to suit your door, but some are fixed and only suitable for doors up to certain specified widths. 

Door Closer EN Power Size Chart:

3: Voltage

Most electromagnetic door closers are 24V DC units and usually have between 10 and 15% tolerances so around 20.4V DC – 27.6V DC would be ok. This really does depend on the unit so be sure to check. If the voltage going to the closer is too low, although it will not cause any damage to it, it will not be enough to allow it to function correctly. If the voltage is too high, it can burn out the solenoid and ruin the closer. You will find that the closer might lose its holding open functionality and the door will creep closed. Regulated 24VDC Transformer Rectifiers should be used with any electromagnetic door closers and holders to avoid voltage surges. 

4: Current Draw

Always check the current draw for the unit. If you have a 1Amp Power Supply and your door closer has a draw of 70mA, this means that you can in theory have up to 14 door closers connected to that power supply. It is however, recommended that you derate the Power Supply by 25% to ensure that it is not maxed out, so in this situation, you could run 10-11 door closers without a problem. You should also check the voltage on the last unit in the circuit to ensure that it is still within the tolerance limits, as current drops over distance. 

5: The Arm

Check the arm – has it been installed correctly? Every door closer is different and some have washers that should be used. If it is a scissor arm closer, ensure that the arm bracket has been installed as per the templates. Some units’ functionality is dictated by the arm so check whether you have the right arm (hold open or swing free) for your unit. 

6: Wiring

Check that the door closer has been wired up correctly. Look for any bends or twists in the wires that could stop the flow of current to the closer and test the plug to be sure that it is working properly.

7: Fitting

Have you fitted the door closer as per the template? Just because a door closer was installed and worked before, does not mean that it was installed correctly. Always follow the instructions provided with your door closer to ensure correct fitting of it. 

8: Consider External Factors

Take a look at the door that the closer is being installed on, are there any seals to overcome? Is it contending with any air pockets? The best way to check some of these issues, is to see if the door can close without a door closer on the door at all. 

If you’re still experiencing other issues with your electromagnetic door closer, take a look at our blog: A Troubleshooting Guide for Overhead Electromagnetic and Mechanical Closers or call our sales team on 01305 263300. 

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