Electric Door Strikes - Answers to Your Problems and Questions
In this question-and-answer blog, we cover common questions on electric strikes, including choosing the right model, compatibility, and functional issues.
Electric Strike FAQs
Q: How do electric strikes work?
A: Electric strikes are fitted in place of a standard lock strike plate. They can be triggered by a range of different methods, including keypads, proximity readers, and push to exit buttons. When activated, the jaw of the strike releases the lockcase's latchbolt, allowing the door to open.
Q: Do electric strikes need power?
A: Yes, electric strikes require either a 12V or 24V DC wired power source to operate. There are also some AC-specific models available. Make sure that the specification of the strike matches that of the controlling unit.
Q: What do fail safe and fail secure mean?
A: Fail safe electric strikes unlock when power is cut, allowing free access. In contrast, fail secure electric strikes remain locked when power is lost, ensuring security until power is restored.
Q: What will happen to a strike if it loses power?
A: This depends on whether your strike is fail safe or fail secure. Fail safe electric locks will unlock when the power is cut, allowing for the free flow of foot traffic. Fail secure locks remain locked until power is restored, maintaining security; however, they also restrict egress.
Q: Are electric strikes continuously rated?
A: Electric strikes can be either intermittently rated or continuously rated. Check the model specifications to ensure it meets your access control requirements. Continuous rating is important for high-traffic areas where the strike may be activated frequently or held in a switched state for long periods.
Q: What is a resistor, and why should I use it with my electric strike?
A: A resistor (or varistor) protects an electric strike from back EMF by clamping voltage spikes and absorbing excess energy. This protection is vital for maintaining the reliability and longevity of the system. Always follow manufacturer and model-specific installation instructions to prevent issues.
Electric Strike Compatibility and Installation
Q: What lock or latch is compatible with my electric strike?
A: There is no one lock or latch that suits every model of strike, whether rim or mortice. Specifics to check include:
Bolt projection
Does it accommodate a deadlocking snib (common on nightlatches)
How tightly-fitting the door is
Contact our technical team for guidance in choosing a compatible lock and electric strike.
Q: Can I get an electric strike for a deadlock?
A: Electric strikes can be used with deadlocks in specialist setups, but this is rarely practical. A deadlatch and strike are more reliable for most doors. If a deadlock is needed, then a mortice lock could be the best solution, and not an electric lock.
Q: Which electric strikes are compatible with AC systems?
A: AC-specific electric strikes are available. If you’re unable to source a dedicated AC model, use a rectifier such as the RM1 module to convert AC to DC.
Q: Can electric strikes be fitted to escape doors?
A: Yes, but only if they have been tested as a complete solution to EN 13637 - Electrically Controlled Exit Systems. This ensures they can handle pre-load conditions and comply with safety regulations.
Q: Can electric strikes be fitted to a fire door?
A: Yes, but only if they have been successfully tested for use on a fire-rated door. Check model-specific test evidence to ensure you’re fitting a compliant product that meets fire safety standards.
Q: What power supply unit do I need for my electric strike?
A: The model-specific power consumption of the strike will be noted on the product data sheet. With this information, calculate the total amperage of all items of access control that need connecting to the PSU. Combine all current requirements, then select a power supply with the correct amperage. You can read more about this in our guide to access control power supplies.
Q: How should the strike I have be wired?
A: Electric strikes can be wired to either receive power or not when the access control system is activated (fail safe or fail secure). The wiring should connect the strike to the access control device, ensuring that the correct terminals are used based on the specific model of the electric strike and the mode in which it is operating. Always follow the brand and model-specific instructions to ensure proper installation.
Troubleshooting Electric Door Strikes
Q: Why is my electric strike stopping the door from opening?
A: If there is too much pressure on the solenoid, the door could fail to open properly. When the door is closed, ensure there is a small gap between the keep and latch bolt when it is in the locked position.
Also, check that the door seals are intact and correctly fitted, and inspect for any warping of the door or frame that could impede effective opening or closing. Models like the Adams Rite 7400 electric strike have a level of adjustability as they’re supplied with removable shims/keepers.
Q: Why is my electric strike not unlocking?
A: There could be several causes. If your strike isn't unlocking, try the following:
Check power supply – Use a multimeter to confirm voltage and current at the terminals.
Inspect components - Ensure that the connectors and wires are in good condition and securely connected.
Confirm correct voltage – Match the 12V/24V rating and AC/DC type to the strike.
Listen for operation – A click with no release could indicate solenoid failure.
Inspect alignment – Check for side load pressure, tight fit, or warped door/frame.
Test off the door – If it works when removed, the mortice or fit is causing resistance.
Check credentials and access settings – There could be a control system issue.
Clean and clear - Ensure that nothing is impeding the operation. Remove any debris that could prevent the keep from opening fully.
Q: Why is my electric strike buzzing?
A: The strike could be humming or buzzing due to receiving the incorrect amperage at the rated voltage. It could be receiving AC power instead of DC, which can cause improper operation. Make sure that the power supply is compatible with the electric strike specifications.
Q: Why is my electric strike overheating?
A: If an electric strike is getting too hot, it could be due to one of the following reasons:
Receiving too much voltage or the incorrect voltage.
A non-continuously rated strike being held open for extended periods, such as on a timer for free access.
Incorrect wire gauge used for the voltage and current.
The ambient temperature could be too high for the model of strike.
Frequency of use - the strike may not be cooling down sufficiently between uses. Select a high-use model for busier access points.
Condition - older strikes and those in poor condition are prone to overheating. Replace units that are overheating for this reason.
More Resources
For advice on how to choose the right electric strike for your door, watch our helpful video:
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